Best Time To Lay Lawn In South Africa

 A bare patch of earth or thinning grass can quickly turn a garden into a source of frustration. Dust collects, weeds spread, and the space becomes difficult to enjoy. Repairing patches might work for a while, but in many cases, it makes more sense to start fresh. Choosing the right time to lay lawn is a key part of that decision.

If the grass is planted too early, cold soil can slow or stop root development. If it’s done too late, the lawn may not establish before winter. South Africa’s varied climate adds another layer of complexity. Understanding local conditions and timing helps make sure your new lawn takes root and lasts.

When To Lay Lawn For Lasting Results

South Africa’s geography includes everything from frost-prone plateaus to humid coastal zones and winter rainfall regions. These differences affect when and how a new lawn will successfully establish. In some areas, the planting window is tight and requires careful timing. In others, there’s more flexibility. Understanding your local climate helps you choose not only the right season, but also the right type of grass and aftercare approach.

Inland Areas (Gauteng, Free State, Highveld)

Inland areas often present the most timing-sensitive conditions for laying a new lawn. While summer can bring strong growth, the buildup to that season is marked by cold snaps, unpredictable rainfall, and periods of dryness. Homeowners in these regions need to be more selective about when and how they plant to avoid losing progress to frost, heat stress, or poor soil response.

Climate Conditions

Inland regions sit on the central plateau, with elevations that lead to colder winters and higher exposure to seasonal extremes. Frost is common from late May through early August, and soil often remains cold into early spring. Daytime temperatures may rise quickly in September, but nighttime lows can still set back tender new grass.

Summer typically arrives with intense heat and scattered afternoon storms, especially in Gauteng. While these storms may seem beneficial, they tend to be short-lived and are often followed by rapid drying due to high temperatures and wind. This inconsistent moisture cycle means the soil may be wet one day and completely dry two days later, making it harder for shallow roots to establish.

The window for optimal lawn growth is relatively short and requires planning around both temperature and rainfall. Sudden shifts in weather are common, and lawns planted too early or too late in the season risk stalling or failing entirely.

Suitable Grass Types

Grass selection for inland areas should be based on the ability to tolerate heat, recover from dry periods, and grow aggressively during the warm months.

• Kikuyu is the most widely used choice in Gauteng and the Free State due to its fast spread, ability to handle direct sun, and strong root system. It responds well to rain and recovers quickly after damage, which makes it a good fit for family gardens and high-traffic areas.
• LM Berea is another suitable option, especially for gardens that receive a mix of sun and shade. It requires more consistent moisture than Kikuyu and is slower growing, but it produces a dense, attractive mat when properly maintained. It does best in gardens where summer temperatures don’t dry out the soil too quickly.
• Buffalo grass is occasionally used in inland regions but is more commonly seen in coastal zones. It’s slow to establish and less resilient in areas with heavy frost. However, for shaded, low-traffic gardens in Pretoria or Bloemfontein, it may still be a viable choice with proper care.

Choosing the right variety also depends on how much sunlight the lawn receives, what kind of maintenance routine is realistic, and whether the space is decorative or functional. Fast-growing options like Kikuyu demand more frequent mowing, while slower varieties may be easier to manage but take longer to fill out.

Best Time To Lay A Lawn

Most homeowners in inland regions prefer to lay lawn between September and November, when soil temperatures have started to rise and there is enough residual moisture to support root growth. This period gives the lawn time to establish before the peak heat of December and January.

It’s important to avoid rushing into early spring planting. Even if the days are warm, cold nights and chilly soil can slow down germination and prevent sod or runners from taking hold. Many homeowners make the mistake of laying grass in late August, only to find it sitting dormant or patchy well into October.

Similarly, planting too late in autumn, especially after mid-April, means the roots may not develop before frost returns, leading to browning, patchiness, or full die-off. This is particularly true for Kikuyu, which goes dormant in winter and won’t recover if it hasn’t properly settled by the time cold sets in.

When planning lawn installation in these regions, it’s best to prepare the soil during late winter, monitor forecasts in early spring, and schedule planting during a consistent stretch of warm days. If irrigation is available, this can extend the planting window slightly, but temperature remains the more important factor.

Coastal Regions (KwaZulu-Natal, Eastern Cape)

Coastal areas tend to offer a more forgiving environment for lawn establishment. Milder winters, higher humidity, and a longer growing season give homeowners greater flexibility when deciding when to plant. However, coastal conditions come with their own set of challenges, including excessive rainfall in short bursts, fungal pressure, and salt exposure in some coastal towns.

Climate Conditions

The coastal belt, especially in KwaZulu-Natal and parts of the Eastern Cape, is shaped by a subtropical climate. Winters are brief and generally frost-free, while summers are long, warm, and humid. Rainfall is more consistent here than in the interior, although it tends to peak in summer, often through short, heavy showers.

Soils in these regions often retain moisture for longer, which helps with early lawn establishment but can also lead to problems if drainage is poor. High humidity creates a suitable environment for fast-growing grass but also increases the risk of fungal diseases. Mowing and watering routines often need to be adjusted based on daily weather conditions rather than a set schedule.

Stormwater runoff can also be an issue in sloped gardens or newly built areas, where heavy rain displaces topsoil or washes away seed before it settles. While the season is longer, attention to site preparation remains critical.

Suitable Grass Types

Coastal conditions support a wide range of grass types, and homeowners can choose based on how shaded the garden is, how much maintenance they prefer, and how resistant the lawn needs to be to foot traffic.

• Kikuyu continues to be a strong choice in full sun. It grows rapidly and recovers well from wear. The humid air and frequent rain in these areas support its aggressive growth, although this also means it needs regular mowing and edging to stay tidy.
• LM Berea performs particularly well in partially shaded gardens or in spots that don’t dry out quickly. It produces a dense, low-growing mat and is less invasive than Kikuyu. However, it doesn’t tolerate foot traffic as well, so it’s better suited to front lawns or low-use areas.
• Buffalo grass is another good option for coastal gardens. It handles a mix of sun and shade and is more tolerant of salt spray than other common types, which makes it suitable for properties near the ocean. It is slower to spread than Kikuyu but often requires less maintenance overall.

The key is to match the grass variety not just to the region, but also to the layout of the garden. Coastal properties often have shaded areas, steep slopes, or irregular watering conditions. Choosing a grass that fits each space avoids frustration later on.

Best Time To Lay A Lawn

Thanks to the mild climate and extended growing season, homeowners can lay lawn from August through April, depending on local rainfall and soil conditions. This broad window gives homeowners more options, although some periods are still more favourable than others.

Spring, particularly from August to October, is one of the best times to plant. Soil is warming, rain is more consistent, and grass enters its peak growing cycle. In areas that receive early summer rains, this timing allows for rapid root development with little intervention.

Autumn, especially in March and early April, is also reliable. While growth begins to slow slightly, the soil is still warm and retains moisture well, supporting root expansion. This is a good time to plant if spring was missed or if a summer heatwave made earlier planting unworkable.

Avoid laying new grass during times of extreme rainfall or when tropical storms are forecasted. Heavy downpours can dislodge seed or cause newly laid sod to shift before roots have taken hold. If planting in the middle of summer, be prepared to water consistently and monitor for signs of disease, especially in shaded or poorly ventilated areas.

Western Cape (Mediterranean Climate)

The Western Cape has a distinct climate that sets it apart from the rest of South Africa. Its seasonal rhythm is almost the reverse of what inland and coastal gardeners experience. While much of the country gears up for lawn planting in spring, the Western Cape reaches its most lawn-friendly period during autumn. This difference affects everything from grass selection to water planning, and understanding the local pattern is essential for success.

Climate Conditions

The region experiences a Mediterranean climate, meaning the majority of rainfall arrives in winter, from about May through August. Summers are long, dry, and often extremely hot, especially inland. These conditions create a clear divide between planting seasons and resting periods.

Soil in this region can dry out quickly between watering, especially in sandy or poorly amended garden beds. In summer, the combination of high temperatures and strong winds increases evaporation, making it hard for shallow roots to survive. Water restrictions are also common during the warmer months, which limits irrigation and puts new lawns under stress.

Winter, on the other hand, brings cool, wet weather and stable soil moisture. This supports strong root development if the grass is laid at the right time. However, the shorter daylight hours and lower temperatures in mid-winter can slow above-ground growth, so early planning is still important.

Suitable Grass Types

Grass choice in the Western Cape often depends on how much irrigation is available during the dry season and how shaded the garden is.

• Buffalo grass is one of the more popular options in this region. It handles sun well, copes with limited water once established, and grows slowly enough to reduce mowing. It’s also less invasive than Kikuyu and generally holds its shape and colour better in high heat.
• LM Berea is another good choice for shaded gardens or areas with limited airflow. It needs a bit more moisture than Buffalo and may not be as drought-tolerant in full sun, but it creates a neat, dense surface and is soft underfoot.
• In some cases, cool-season grasses like ryegrass or fescue are used, especially for lawns that need to stay green through winter. These are often seeded over existing grass or used in temporary applications. They require more consistent watering in summer and may decline if not carefully managed.

Many homeowners in the Western Cape also consider water-wise alternatives or mixed lawn zones, where only the most visible or frequently used areas receive lawn coverage, while the rest of the garden is planted with groundcovers or mulch to reduce irrigation needs.

Best Time To Lay A Lawn

In most parts of the Western Cape, it’s best to lay lawn in autumn, from March to early May. This period lines up with the start of the rainy season, giving grass the moisture and mild temperatures it needs to establish deep roots before winter fully sets in.

Soil is still warm from summer, and the first rains help settle the lawn without over-saturating it. The risk of heat stress is low, and with regular monitoring, lawns laid in autumn often show strong root development by winter and vibrant green growth by early spring.

Spring, from September to November, is a secondary option, especially if irrigation is available. The weather is dry, and watering will need to be carefully managed to avoid gaps in establishment. Summer planting is generally discouraged unless automated irrigation systems are already in place and daily attention is possible. High temperatures and wind can quickly dry out new grass before roots have taken hold.

Lawns installed in autumn often perform better in the long term because they begin their first summer with an established root system. This makes them more resilient during heatwaves and less dependent on daily watering.

Choosing The Right Lawn Installation Method

The way you install your new lawn has a direct impact on cost, establishment time, and early maintenance. There are several methods available, and each one suits a different type of garden, budget, and timeline. Before you lay lawn, choose an installation method that suits your timeline, garden conditions, and grass type.

While all methods require some level of soil preparation and aftercare, some are better suited to small spaces, shaded areas, or low-maintenance gardens. Others may be more appropriate for larger properties or where immediate results are important. Understanding the options can help you avoid unnecessary expense or setbacks.

Seed

Sowing seed is the most budget-friendly way to establish a lawn, especially in large areas. It’s typically used with cool-season grasses or in temperate regions, although some warm-season varieties can also be seeded under the right conditions.

The main advantage is cost. A bag of seed can cover a large area at a relatively low price. However, this method requires patience and a steady hand. Germination takes time, and the seedbed must be kept consistently moist for several weeks. Protection from birds, wind, and foot traffic is essential during early growth.

Because seed is vulnerable to washing away or drying out, it’s best used in gardens with stable, well-prepared soil and access to consistent watering. It’s also better suited to flat areas rather than slopes, where erosion is more likely.

Seed should be sown in spring or early autumn, depending on your region and grass type. Summer planting is risky unless temperatures are mild and watering is well managed.

Turf (Instant Lawn)

Turf is often the preferred option for those who want immediate visual impact. It involves laying pre-grown grass rolls or squares directly onto prepared soil. It’s commonly used with Kikuyu, LM Berea, and Buffalo, all of which transplant well if handled correctly.

The upfront cost is higher than seeding, but the results are fast. Within a day, an empty patch of ground becomes a complete lawn. However, instant lawns still need time to establish below the surface. Proper soil contact, watering, and minimal disturbance for the first two to three weeks are essential.

Turf is ideal for small to medium-sized gardens, high-use areas, or where erosion needs to be controlled quickly. It can be laid any time during the growing season, though spring and early autumn offer the best combination of warm soil and stable weather. Laying turf in winter is not recommended, especially for warm-season grasses, as they may go dormant before rooting takes place.

Runners Or Plugs

Using runners or plugs is a slower but cost-effective way to establish warm-season grasses like Kikuyu or LM Berea. These methods involve transplanting small pieces of rooted grass into prepared soil at intervals, allowing them to spread and fill the area over time.

This approach is often used by landscapers or experienced gardeners who want to save on turf costs but prefer a more controlled outcome than seeding. It’s also practical for filling in bare patches within an existing lawn or for gardens with irregular layouts.

The main drawback is time. Full coverage can take several months, depending on the spacing and the season. During that time, weeds must be managed carefully, and watering must be consistent. Like seed, this method is best started in spring or early summer, when grass is actively growing and has the best chance to spread quickly.

Comparison Of Lawn Installation Methods

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to establishing a new lawn. The method you choose should match your budget, time frame, garden layout, and how much maintenance you’re prepared to do early on. The table below compares three common options, with practical notes to help you decide which is the best fit for your goals.

Method	Cost	Time to Establish	Maintenance Level	Coverage Control	Ideal Use Case
Seed	Low	4 to 6 weeks	High ★★	High (good for patching)	Cost-effective for large, flat areas
Runners or Plugs	Medium	2 to 4 months	High ★★	High (good for custom layouts)	Flexible for irregular shapes or gradual coverage
Turf (Instant Lawn)	High	Immediate (2–3 weeks to root)	Moderate ★	Low (full-area only)	Quick results for small gardens or formal lawns

★ Requires consistent watering and careful weed control
★★ Needs active monitoring, protection from birds, and possibly netting or mulch cover

Step-By-Step Process For Laying A New Lawn

Each part of the lawn installation process plays a role in how well the grass will root, spread, and hold up over time. If the ground is not prepared correctly or if the grass is laid at the wrong moment, the lawn may look uneven, dry out quickly, or become vulnerable to weeds and disease. This step-by-step guide is designed to help you avoid those problems and get the best possible results from day one.

Prepare The Ground

Begin by removing all existing grass, weeds, stones, and roots from the planting area. If there is an old lawn, strip it away down to the root zone. You can do this with a spade or turf cutter for small spaces. For larger or compacted areas, a rotary hoe will break up the soil more thoroughly.

Once cleared, lightly water the area and allow it to sit undisturbed for about a week. This encourages weed seeds in the soil to germinate, which gives you a chance to remove them before laying the new lawn. This process is especially helpful if you’re planning to seed or use runners, as young grass is easily outcompeted by weeds.

If the soil is compacted, aerate it before proceeding. Use a garden fork or core aerator to puncture the surface and allow air, moisture, and nutrients to reach deeper layers. This is particularly important for clay-heavy soils, high-traffic areas, or gardens where construction work has compressed the ground.

Next, level the ground. Rake the soil to remove clumps, break up hard areas, and correct any dips. A gentle slope away from buildings will help with drainage. For heavy clay soils or areas where water pools, mixing in coarse sand or compost can improve structure. Use a rake to create a fine, even surface that is ready when you lay lawn and firm enough to support root contact. You can lightly roll the surface to settle the soil before planting.

Test The Soil

Before you lay lawn, test your soil’s pH and nutrient content to confirm it’s within the right range for grass to grow. Most lawn grasses grow best in slightly acidic to neutral soil, between pH 6 and 7.

A basic pH test kit is easy to use. If your soil is too acidic, apply agricultural lime. If it is too alkaline, compost or pine bark can help bring it back into range. For nutrient-poor soil, apply a balanced starter fertiliser or mix in well-matured compost. These amendments should be worked into the top 10 to 15 centimeters of soil so the roots can access them as they grow.

Choose The Right Grass For The Space

Grass selection should be based on sunlight, soil condition, and how the lawn will be used. For example:

• Kikuyu suits open areas with full sun and is ideal for active households, pets, or large gardens.
• LM Berea prefers filtered sun or partial shade and is better for front lawns or decorative spaces with less traffic.
• Buffalo works well in coastal areas or gardens with mixed sun and shade, and it handles drought better than most.

Avoid planting a sun-loving grass in a shaded yard or a slow-growing variety in a high-traffic space. Getting this wrong often leads to uneven coverage and frustration later on.

Lay The Turf, Plant The Runners, Or Sow The Seed

Turf (Instant Lawn) is laid in a staggered pattern, starting along a straight edge of the garden. Place the pieces tightly together with no gaps when you lay lawn and avoid stretching or overlapping. Once the turf is down, press it into the soil using a roller or by walking across boards. This helps remove air pockets and encourages root contact. Turf edges dry out faster than the center, so perimeter areas may need extra water in the first week.

Runners or plugs should be planted into evenly spaced holes, typically 15 to 30 centimeters apart. The closer they are planted, the faster they will cover the area. Once in place, gently firm the soil around each piece and water thoroughly. Keep the area weed-free and moist throughout the establishment phase.

Seed is sown across the prepared soil either by hand or with a spreader. Once scattered, gently rake the surface to help the seed settle into the top layer. Do not bury it deeply. Covering the area with a thin layer of fine compost, topsoil, or mulch helps retain moisture and protects the seed from birds and wind. This method is best suited to flat areas where erosion or pooling is not an issue.

Water Thoroughly And Consistently

Watering should begin immediately after you lay lawn and continue on a consistent schedule. For the first two weeks, water twice daily – once in the early morning and once in the late afternoon. The goal is to keep the topsoil evenly moist, not saturated.

After the first two weeks, reduce watering to once daily for another week or so. Once you see steady growth and resistance when pulling gently on the grass, shift to two to three times per week. Eventually, a healthy, established lawn should need watering once a week, depending on your local climate and rainfall.

If you’re using seed or runners, avoid any gaps in the schedule during the first month. Dry soil can stop germination or cause transplants to fail.

Mow At The Right Time

Wait to mow until about two to three weeks after you lay lawn, when the grass is tall enough to cut without exposing stems or roots. This is usually two to three weeks after planting, but it may take longer depending on the weather and grass type. A good sign that it’s ready is when the grass resists being lifted and feels firm underfoot.

Use a mower on its highest setting for the first cut. This avoids putting stress on the young plants. Never remove more than one-third of the blade height in a single mow. Do not use brush cutters, as they cut too low and may damage the base of the grass.

Continue mowing regularly from that point forward, adjusting the height based on the season and grass type.

Fertilise And Dress After Establishment

About three to four weeks after planting, apply a light dose of slow-release fertiliser. This supports steady root development and helps the lawn thicken over time. Avoid overfeeding or using high-nitrogen products early on, as this can cause soft, leggy growth or burn the grass.

After the first mow, apply a light topdressing using screened compost or a fine lawn dressing mix. This can help smooth out shallow low spots, improve moisture retention, and provide additional nutrients. Rake it in gently so that the grass blades are still visible and not buried under the material.

Repeat dressing periodically during the growing season if needed, especially in areas that show uneven growth or water runoff.

Long-Term Lawn Maintenance

Once the lawn is established, routine care becomes the key to keeping it green, even, and healthy throughout the year. Without regular maintenance, even a well-laid lawn can begin to show signs of stress, patchiness, or thinning. Good maintenance doesn’t need to be complicated, but it does need to be consistent and adapted to the season.

Spring Care

Spring is the time to reset the lawn after winter dormancy and prepare it for active growth.

• Scarify to remove built-up thatch and dead material that may block sunlight and water. Use a spring-tine rake or mechanical scarifier, depending on the size of the lawn.
• Aerate if the soil feels compacted, particularly in high-traffic areas. This allows air, moisture, and nutrients to reach the root zone.
• Fertilise with a balanced spring lawn feed to encourage green growth and root development.
• Mow regularly, but avoid cutting too low early in the season. Start with a higher setting and gradually lower it over time.
• Edge and trim to neaten borders and prevent overgrowth into paths or beds.

Summer Care

In summer, the lawn is actively growing but also under stress from heat and inconsistent rainfall.

• Water deeply but infrequently, aiming for one to two thorough waterings per week. Early morning is best to reduce evaporation, and adopting water-wise habits throughout summer can make a noticeable difference in both resilience and maintenance.
• Raise the mower height slightly to reduce stress on the lawn and help it retain moisture.
• Monitor for weeds, fungal issues, and dry spots, especially in shaded or uneven areas.
• Fertilise lightly in early summer if needed, but avoid high-nitrogen products in peak heat.

If the lawn starts to yellow or lose vigor, inspect the root zone. It may be a sign of compacted soil, shallow watering, or nutrient imbalance.

Autumn Care

Autumn is an important time to prepare the lawn for winter while still taking advantage of the residual warmth in the soil.

• Topdress the lawn with fine compost or a screened lawn mix. This helps smooth out low spots, boosts microbial activity, and improves root insulation.
• Fertilise with an autumn lawn feed that is lower in nitrogen but higher in potassium to strengthen the roots.
• Aerate again if the soil has compacted during summer.
• Repair any worn or damaged areas before temperatures drop by planning to lay lawn using seed or runners.

Autumn is also a good time to reduce mowing frequency as the lawn growth begins to slow.

Winter Care

Growth slows down in most regions during winter, but a few key actions can help the lawn stay healthy and bounce back faster in spring.

• Avoid walking on frost-covered grass, as this can crush the blades and damage the crown of the plant.
• Clear fallen leaves regularly to prevent moisture build-up and fungal problems.
• Hold off on fertilising or scarifying, as the lawn is not actively growing.
• If the lawn looks pale or thin, avoid overcorrecting. Wait until spring before taking further action.

Work With Lawn Care Plus

Lawn Care Plus offers hands-on support for homeowners looking to install or revive their lawns in select areas of South Africa. Our services include on-site preparation, grass installation, seasonal maintenance, and tailored lawn care planning based on your soil and climate conditions. We work with Kikuyu, LM Berea, Buffalo, and other common varieties, and can assist with small residential gardens or larger, high-use spaces.

If you’re unsure where to start or need help with a specific part of the process, we can provide guidance on the right grass type, planting method, and timing for your location. Our team handles full lawn installations in Johannesburg and surrounding areas and can offer advice or product recommendations for clients outside those zones.

To find out if we operate in your area or to get help planning where and when to lay lawn, contact Lawn Care Plus.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is The Best Time Of Year To Lay A New Lawn?

The best time to lay lawn depends on your region and the type of grass you plan to use. In most areas of South Africa, spring (August to October) is ideal for warm-season grasses like Kikuyu, Buffalo, and LM Berea. This gives the grass time to root before summer heat sets in. Early autumn (March to April) is also suitable in many regions, especially the Western Cape, where the rainy season begins around that time. Avoid installing new grass in winter or the peak of summer unless you have irrigation and stable conditions.

When Should I Plant Grass Seed?

Grass seed should be sown in spring or early autumn, when soil temperatures are mild and consistent moisture is available. This helps with germination and early growth. Cool-season grasses like ryegrass are best planted in early autumn, especially in temperate regions. Warm-season grass seed, such as Kikuyu, should be planted in spring to ensure enough growing time before winter.

How Should I Prepare The Ground Before Laying A New Lawn?

Start by removing all existing grass, weeds, rocks, and debris. Level the ground, aerate if compacted, and amend the soil if needed. A pH between 6 and 7 is ideal. Add compost or starter fertiliser and work it into the topsoil. After that, water lightly and allow the area to rest for a few days to check drainage and identify any low spots. The surface should be smooth, lightly compacted, and free of obstructions before planting.

What’s The Difference Between Laying Turf, Using Runners, Or Sowing Seed?

• Turf (instant lawn) gives immediate coverage and is best for small to medium gardens where fast results are needed.
• Runners or plugs are planted into the soil at intervals and gradually spread to form full coverage. This method is slower but allows for more flexibility in shape and cost.
• Seed is the most affordable option but takes longer to establish. It requires consistent moisture and protection from wind, birds, and foot traffic during the early stages.

Each method has its pros and cons, and the best choice depends on your budget, timeline, and the size of the area.

When Can I Give My Lawn Its First Cut?

You should mow the lawn for the first time about two to three weeks after planting, once the grass has rooted and is growing steadily. Tug gently on the blades, if they stay firmly in place, the roots are anchoring well. Use the mower on its highest setting for the first cut, and avoid removing more than one-third of the blade height. Brush cutters are not recommended for new lawns, as they cut too low and can damage the root zone.

When Should I Fertilise A New Lawn?

Apply a light dose of slow-release fertiliser about three to four weeks after planting, once the grass has been mowed for the first time. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilisers too early, as they can overstimulate leaf growth without supporting root development. If you’re using compost as a topdressing, apply it after the first mow and rake it in gently.

When Should I Topdress A New Lawn?

Topdressing should be done after the first mow, usually about three weeks after planting. Use a light layer of screened compost or lawn dressing to fill shallow low spots, improve soil structure, and support root growth. Spread it evenly so the grass blades remain visible and continue receiving sunlight.

How Often Should I Water A New Lawn?

For the first two weeks, water twice daily to keep the topsoil consistently moist. After that, reduce to once a day for another week or two. Once the lawn shows signs of rooting and steady growth, shift to watering two to three times per week, then eventually down to once a week depending on the weather and grass type. Adjust based on rainfall and watch for dry patches or pooling.

What Time Of Year Is Best To Replace An Old Or Damaged Lawn?

The same seasonal rules apply for full replacement as for new installations. In most regions, the best time is spring (August to October) or early autumn (March to April). This gives the grass enough time to settle before extreme cold or heat. If you’re removing an old lawn, allow time for weed suppression, soil recovery, and regrading before planting.